This is the old ORWO PF-2 film — positive, fine-korn motion picture film. In the past it’s been used for producing black and white positives for cinematography by contact printing. Surprisingly to me, a new versions of it is still in distribution by the good lads of ORWO North America. Here is a specs page on their website.
In my old ORWO photo materials booklet I found film details for the old version that I have:
In old-time forums I found discussions that in the past this film’s sensitivity has been rated close to the photo paper – 2 – 3 – 6 ISO. Of course the final result would depend on the development mode.
So I decided to test its condition and had a bracketing test.
I used paper developer ORWO N-120 as I had it ready and slightly exhausted. 1/250 shutter (combined with this mode of development, 22° C for 5 minutes) equaled the speed for ISO 100, judging the final result. I guess I pushed the film here. However, I witnessed some amount of fog and relatively good gray tones.
Next stop was developing it in Kodak D-76, 6 minutes at 20° C:
Later on I will understand that I’ve pushed the film a lot here, hence the fog.
The emulsion of this film is very, very delicate. If you zoom in the above examples you will notice significant scratches on the film — perhaps the 35mm cassette that I used were too tight for the film and transporting to the next frame produced these lines of scratch.
Things looked slightly better when I exposed the film as ISO 25. Here is the result in D-76, 20° C for 6 minutes:
I love windsurfing, btw. Not sure if I mentioned this before.
OK, hold my beer and hand over another roll.
Exposed as ISO 12, D-76, 20° C for 4 minutes.
Fog slightly cleans up, but that could be due to:
a.) I am moving closer to the appropriate E.I. for this film by decreasing ISO and development;
b.) I am moving to the core of the roll, where the film has deteriorated less;
c.) Both of the above.
Next attempt was with ORWO A-03 fine grain developer, 1+0, 21° for 4 minutes. Exposed as ISO 12:
These pictures were taken with Minolta X-300 and 50 mm 1:2 lens in a late afternoon in January 2018 — the lack of sharpness is a result of the slow lens, setting sun and shaking hands in the cold afternoon.
Fog level even lower, though I haven’t used any anti-fogging agent, as benziotriazole, for example.
The original developer for ORWO PF-2, among other positive or technical photo materials, is ORWO 20.
If you have problems with the Cyrillic, here is a quick translation:
ORWO 20
Metol…………………………………………………………………………….. 2.0 g.
Sodium Sulphite (Na2SO3), anhydrous……………………………….. 25.0 g.
Hydroquinon………………………………………………………………….. 4.0 g.
Sodium Carbonate (Na2CO3), anhydrous…………………………….. 18.5 g.
KBr………………………………………………………………………………… 2.0 g.
Water to make 1,000 ml.
I mixed ORWO 20 and had another test of this film at ISO 50, 20° C for 3 min., agitation every 30 sec. Here are the results:
Underexposed at least by a stop, but almost no signs of fog. White areas are due to light leaks, a result of poor 35mm film cassettes I used.
All of the examples above have not been corrected, except cropped.
As a conclusion:
- nice material to play (your nerves) with, that would eventually reward you with fine grain and fine gray tones;
- when testing unknown films in large canister, remove first few meters for consistent results;
- be extra careful with the delicate emulsion.
In other words, a film for regular guys.
6 Comments
got a 17 meter (55 feet) can of this I think expired the year i was born 1975, the instructions are dated before my parents married 1972. :O it’s naturally white. But the common thing I’ve been told is to shoot at a rather low ISO or simulate ISO 1-6 be F Stops 5 or bigger (smaller number which is so confusing but I’m used to it now) And thats sorta what I’m asking. Lower F stop or slow shutter. Which is better.. (other than slower shutter needs a tripod and a cable release.
Hello–
Lower F-value, or aperture, has many impacts on your photography. These would vary from lens to lens (construction, materials used, etc.), but generally you may get a good idea here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aperture#Application
What you used as a stop bath and fixer?
I don’t use stop for b&w films, just 3 minutes rinse with tap water. Fixer is ORWO A-300, if you are interested in the formula — please let me know.
Thanks, yes please send it to me:
lerest327 at g mail
Just sent you an email.